“What do you sell o ye merchants?
Richly your wares are displayed….”
This poem by the Nightingale of India rings in my ears as I wander through the CERC Exhibition Grounds at Kalakshetra Road, Tiruvanmiyur – which hosts an exhibition once a month. Called variously as ‘Chennai Santhe’, or ‘Hasthakala’, or ‘Kalaa Utsavam’ or ‘Karigar Mela’, it has stalls from almost all parts of the country displaying fabrics, ready-made clothing, artefacts, traditional paintings, home decor items, metal/wood/earthen cookware,traditional toys – wood and brass, ceramic wares – jars, mugs, pots, handloom bedsheets, cushions, bags with handwork, Kolhapuris and jooties, trinkets and accessories of every type, and food and spices unique to each region. To add to the festive vibes, they also sometimes have folk dances to the beat of dhols, and puppet shows and magic shows. Most recently they have added a pet adoption drive on weekends.
What is so different about this exhibition? Firstly, it brings the wares directly from the artisans to the buyers. Secondly going through the exhibition is an education in itself about the variety of crafts, weaves and handwork that different regions of our country are known for. When Ms. Sarojini Naidu penned the poem I began with, it was against the backdrop of the Swadeshi Movement. We were under foreign rule and the self-esteem of our countrymen was at a low. The poem, which is a panorama of sights, sounds and colours of the market, probably intended to promote pride in our home grown arts and crafts.
Now browsing round the stalls of the ‘Santhe’, taking in the kaleidoscope of art and colours, it seems it is our turn now to do something for the traditional art and crafts of our country to flourish.
I will go over briefly on the various items that are generally available in these stalls.
Fabrics and Sarees: Let us start with the most women-centric category! You have silks, cotton, handwoven, block printed sarees and fabrics from different regions: Bandhani, Kalamkari, Banarasi, Muga and Eri silk, Sambhalpur, Ikkat, Ajrakh, Tussar, Kota, Chanderi, Venkatagiri, Jamdani, Patola, Uppada, Gadwal, Mangalgiri, Pashmina, Pochampalli, Chettinad, Madurai, Narayanpet, to mention some.
Needlecraft: Hand embroidery like Chikankari, Zardosi, Aari, applique work, mirror work, Toda embroidery, Phulkaaari, Gota Patti, Kashmiri, Kutchi , Kantha, etc. – these are showcased on sarees, dress materials, cushion covers, table runners, bags, etc. The motifs, colour combinations and floral/geometric designs are typical and distinguishing for each type of work.
Paintings: You have miniature paintings from Rajasthan, Madhubani of Bihar, Warli art, Pattachitra, glass paintings, paintings on leaves, old stamp paper, etc. If you ask, the artisans are only too happy to explain how the painting is done and may also do a small demo. You will marvel at the artistry and effort needed to create a small painting.
Trinkets and Accessories: You have beautiful, oxidised necklaces, earrings, fine filigree work from the regions of Orissa and West Bengal. You also have trinkets made of lac, beads and wood. Bangles – these deserve separate mention. You have rows and rows of these “circles of light’ that bring joy to the wearer – again I am reminded of our Nightingale’s The Bangle Sellers. You have glass bangles from Firozabad, brass bangles from Moradabad, stone bangles from Hyderabad and Jaipur, lac bangles again from Jaipur. Besides this you also have beaded bangles, shell bangles, wood and oxidised metal bangles.
Food Items: Here you have different types of spices, pickles, preserves, papads, mouth fresheners, and churans (digestive powder).
Bags and Baskets: Bamboo, straw and jute – environment friendly specialties from the east and northeast.
Dhurries, Mats and Bedsheets: Handwoven cotton and semi-woollen mats, dhurries and quilts from Mirzapur and Punjab.
Marble and White stone: Intricately carved and inlay work on marble/white stone on lampshades jewel boxes – a sample of the skilled craftsmanship of Agra and Jaipur.
Metal craft, Wood craft: Traditional brass and bronze lamps and figurines from Tamil Nadu, miniature replicas of daily use cookware, wooden toys, spoons, cutting boards and ladles, keychains, large wood carved wall panels, corner pieces, wood resin trays and bowls. Dhokra art by the tribal communities is also available.
Cookware and Pottery: There is a sea of shiny blue ceramic pottery as well as rust brown clay and Terracotta pots, pans, mugs, jars. I have also seen black pottery from Manipur in the stalls. Besides these you also have huge Chettinad brass vessels and storage jars that were probably used decades before ‘online ordering’ of food came on us. These can now be a collector’s item. Iron and cast iron cookware – a healthier option which many are now switching over to, is also available.
Lastly, there are display boards asking you not to bargain with the artisans; the prices anyway are reasonable and will not dent your pockets. Do come and visit the next time the ‘Chennai Santhe’ is held – it is advertised in the newspapers. There is no entry fee and there is ample parking space. It has something for everyone besides being an ideal scouting ground for antiques or dolls to supplement your Navaratri collection, and the ubiquitous return gifts, or party favours with a touch of tradition. Enjoy the experience and take home a work of art, this will not only highlight your mantlepiece but will also help keep the hearth warm in some rural part of our country.