Nostalgic memories of Chennai in the 1930s and ’40s when we were students in Queen Mary’s College. The only other women’s college in Madras at the time was Women’s Christian College. Stella Maris was yet to be born.

Modes of transport were cycle rickshaws and trams. Cars were a luxury. Our favourite haunts were Round Tana, which has changed so much now, Elphinstone Cinema, where we went for matinee shows, and the Udipi restaurant where we enjoyed masala dosa, badam halwa and other goodies. It was  adjacent to the old Indian Express office which was earlier the Hindu office. Then there was Crown Cafe which served the tastiest biriyani and, adjacent to it, the Hana­graph Studio.

Hanagraph must sound strange to many today. It was a cubbyhole studio which took eight photographs for a rupee, slightly bigger than today’s passport size ones. There was a table on which you rested your hands. You could pose with an open book or a bouquet of flowers (dry flowers) kept handy by the owner. You could also pose with a friend.

Our trips to Round Tana from QMC were by tram, which started from Ice House. This building has changed names from widows’ home to Viveka­nanda Illam. The tram conductor rang a bell to denote a stop and a start, instead of blowing a whistle. It dropped us at Round Tana and proceeded down Mount Road to Saidapet. We alighted at Round Tana invariably to see a movie at the El­phin­stone. That landmark has disappeared along with Swa­deshi Emporium and Chella­ram’s, the best place to buy good sarees. Next to Elphin­stone there was an ice cream parlour called Elphin­stone Soda Fountain (now this space is occupied by Vasantha, a vegetarian restaurant). The taste of the Peach Melba they served is still fresh in my mouth. P. Orr & Sons is still there. Khadi Bhan­dar was a small outfit selling just hand­spun khadi to wear which was a source of pride in the days of the freedom struggle. The present Bata showroom housed the Italian restaurant Bosotto’s, well known for its pastries.

Our favourite shopping centre was Moore Market next to Central Station, where you could get anything under the sun. There were also small eating places where you could have puffs, pakodas, samosas and cold drinks. One of them had a sign “Ready to serve Hot Pups!” Perfumes in tiny bottles were also available, the hot favourite being ‘Evening in Paris’, a tiny dark blue bottle priced at one rupee four annas. It was a great place to do Christmas shopping and buy secondhand books. Shopping at Spencer’s was not affordable for all and sundry. Refrigeration or any kind of cold storage was a dream. Behind Moore Market there were shops where we could buy fresh turkey, chicken, goose – choose the bird! Bought a day before and prepared for the occasion.

Another landmark, which has disappeared, is My Ladye’s Garden and the lake, alongside the zoo. Before the zoo shifted to Vandalur, we had tigers,  deers and other wild animals and beautiful birds in cages there. Apart from the Marina, it was a favourite picnic spot. We could go boating on the lake and have elephant rides!

Those were the days when the Cooum was clean and students from Women’s Christian College could cross the Cooum to Spur Tank Road without sullying themselves and give their blouses for stitching at their favourite tailor, Jothies. The shop is still there. Maybe the grandchildren are running it! Our favourite tailor was the humble Mr. Naidu, always gentle and smiling, who stitched blouses to perfection, from puffed sleeves to ‘leg of mutton sleeves’. Started as a one-man show, Naidu Hall is today a flourishing business with branches everywhere.

It was truly a good old ­Madras in those days.