“Southwest Monsoon is soon approaching, when will the fishing ban end, when can we venture into the seas again?” were the questions in our minds ever since the winter migrants started leaving earlier this year. We wanted to explore the offshore waters during the SW monsoon as our previous trips have been just before the NE monsoon (October-November). From field guides to journal articles, the data on pelagic birds’ migration in the Bay of Bengal is highly deficient and it was our hope that these journeys would contribute to filling this gap.

In early July, we were able to secure a passenger boat at a reasonable cost and at the time we wanted. Despite numerous attempts to start the trip from Pondicherry, we had to settle for a day trip off the Chennai coast in August. A predetermined route was planned and was suggested to the boat’s captain. We were to travel East for a distance of approximately 30 nautical miles. The continental shelf off the Chennai coast ends at about 40 miles. And it is here that we expected to see much of the large schools of fishes and the birds that prey them. In contrast, the continental shelf ends much closer off the Marakkanam and Pondicherry coast.

Thirteen participants from Bangalore, Madurai and Tuticorin joined us in this trip, some arrivingi in Chennai just before the departure. Despite lack of sleep, due to either travel or work or emergency circumstances, both enthusiasm and anticipation were high. Previous trips had yielded just a handful of pelagic birds; most of us had a gut feeling that this time would be much better. Armed with GPS-equipped smartphones and watches to track our route, we departed at 6:15 a.m. The boat was capable of 9 knots and the captain was urged to push ahead to reach the predetermined spot before 10 a.m.

We decided not to stop for any of the non-pelagic terns that are found close to the shore and the crew was also asked to help us in spotting other birds. A few of the participants started feeling sea sick due to the choppy waters as well as fumes from the diesel engine’s exhaust. Small cups of lemon tea helped the others cope and remain active in the front of the boat. Soon enough we started seeing Caspian terns, common terns and a single Greater crested tern. A few bridled terns started appearing, which rekindled excitement. But, it was the beautiful gliding action of the flying fish there that completely enthralled us all.

At about 10:15 a.m, a small black bird was seen in-between the waves. Drawing closer, we saw the hovering action of a Wilson’s storm-petrel. Clear views of the white rump and hovering action was seen, Flight shots of it revealed the rather squarish tail with legs projecting behind the tail. At 10:30 a.m. ‘dolphins’ was the call from the front and soon we were surrounded by a pod of bottlenose dolphins, estimated to be around 30 individuals. Travelling further, we started noticing the larger species of flying fish. We also noticed larger predatory fish pursuing the flying fish.

It wasn’t long before the first Shearwater was seen, but at times it was hard to track their presence when the waves rose high. Soon we saw a pair of flesh-footed Shearwater, noticeable by their bi-coloured beak and pink foot. Closer to noon the air was still and it was hot and the sightings were fewer, but suddenly a large greyish-brown gull-sized bird approached us head on, “Skua” was the call. The plumage wasn’t familiar; clearly it wasn’t either the Pomarine or Parasitic that we were expecting. The Skua went past us and banked right to inspect a fishing trawler nearby. It wasn’t until much later that the bird was identified as a South Polar Skua. Congratulations were in order and the participants felt relieved having sighted their first Skua.

Thoughtfully, the crew had started preparing a noodle lunch to celebrate our Skua sighting, but then what is a boat trip without eating fish. The crew soon obliged by going close to a fishing boat and bartered for two small sized tuna fish with a loaf and a pack of biscuits! Delicious fish curry and rice was a second course for lunch.

As we crossed the 25-mile mark, the seafloor depth was at 120 metres and there weren’t any fishing trawlers, nor were there any birds. The crew advised that we return to the 60 m depth area. Since the water currents were flowing west, they felt that the best sightings were to be had in that area. We decided to head north by northwest and return to the coast by 5 p.m. in a south south-west direction. True to the crew’s words the birds started appearing closer to the 60 metres depth line. Many more storm petrels were seen, and at one location a completely dark storm petrel was seen chasing a Wilson’s storm-petrel close to a catamaran. Photos revealed that it was the Swinhoe’s storm-petrel. Its flight was clearly more graceful and effortless. A few more shearwaters were sighted and we managed to get close to a small flock of flesh-footed Shearwaters and take pictures from fairly close distances.

The return course to Kasimedu fishing harbour was planned via the Ennore port area where we expected to see terns resting on the large buoys. But sadly, not many were seen and we headed back to coast (Courtesy: Madras Naturalists’ Society Bulletin).